Donerail, There is the most marvelous place in Normandy. I've never seen another American there and it is magical. Here's an excerpt from my 1998 journal (that is currently being put online at http://www.francetoday.com although I'm not to Normandy yet.)
"Drove north through Fleury and Perriers-sur-Andelle to follow signs to Château de Vascoeuil where we parked. Paid our entrance fee and wandered in. You immediately start to see sculptures and mosaics on the lawn and in every nook and cranny. The lovely old Château is also a museum of modern art and has a wonderful collection including Calder, Leger, Dali and others. We took pictures and went through a restored farmhouse and followed a stream (the river Andelle) to an outdoor salon de thé, the Restaurant La Cascade. They had a good choice of menu items and prices in the little restaurant beside two waterfalls and in the shadow of a sculpture that would have fit in the fountain at the Pompidou Center in Paris. Ed had an excellent grilled salmon and I got roast duck. Our wonderful waiter tried his English and we tried our French. Good food; good fun; perfect setting."
There is more but this gives you the idea. There was a Cocteau exhibit that day. In the tower of the chateau we met an older gentleman who was absolutely amazing. He told us all about the history of the chateau . . . all the while insisting he didn't speak any English. He was so funny and very knowledgeable. The restaurant was good and the setting incredible. Obviously, it could be cold and wet in November, but it's worth a try.
There is Honfleur which is a major tourist destination . . . but for a reason. It's utterly charming. The Falaise dAval has been photographed so many times that I'm sure you've seen it, but the real thing is better than the photos. If you haven't visited Giverny, this would be the time to do it. Monet aside, the little town itself is beautiful. While you're in the area, visit Château Gaillard at les Andelys. The chateau is in ruins, but the view is to die for. Have you seen Mont St. Michel? Also, you should visit Bayeux for both tapestry and the glorious cathedral. If you have time, get John Chapman's "Slow Way to Paris" from the library and read it. We followed in his footsteps (car tracks!) several times and enjoyed it immensely. I think it's out of print but I'm sure a good library would have it.
Normandy is wonderful. One day we followed little handpainted signs to a farm that sold cider. We ended up way way out in the boonies but we found the place and the cider was not only excellent, the farmer's wife was selling little grape cakes so be got one for dinner. In the area you might try St. Felician cheese. It's not quite as good as The Temptation of St. Felician cheese, but it's a close second. We did enjoy it and it's not one you seem mentioned often.
"Drove north through Fleury and Perriers-sur-Andelle to follow signs to Château de Vascoeuil where we parked. Paid our entrance fee and wandered in. You immediately start to see sculptures and mosaics on the lawn and in every nook and cranny. The lovely old Château is also a museum of modern art and has a wonderful collection including Calder, Leger, Dali and others. We took pictures and went through a restored farmhouse and followed a stream (the river Andelle) to an
outdoor salon de thé, the Restaurant La Cascade. They had a good choice of menu items and prices in the little restaurant beside two waterfalls and in the shadow of a sculpture that would have fit in the fountain at the Pompidou Center in Paris. Ed had an excellent grilled salmon and I got roast duck. Our wonderful waiter tried his English and we tried our French. Good food; good fun; perfect setting."
There is more but this gives you the idea. There was a Cocteau exhibit that day. In the tower of the chateau we met an older gentleman who was absolutely amazing. He told us all about the history of the chateau . . . all the while insisting he didn't speak any English. He was so funny and very knowledgeable. The restaurant was good and the setting incredible. Obviously, it could be cold and wet in November, but it's worth a try.
There is Honfleur which is a major tourist destination . . . but for a reason. It's utterly charming. The Falaise dAval has been photographed so many times that I'm sure you've seen it, but the real thing is better than the photos. If you haven't visited Giverny, this would be the time to do it. Monet aside, the little town itself is beautiful. While you're in the area, visit Château Gaillard at les Andelys. The chateau is in ruins, but the view is to die for. Have you seen Mont St. Michel? Also, you should visit Bayeux for both tapestry and the glorious cathedral. If you have time, get John Chapman's "Slow Way to Paris" from the library and read it. We followed in his footsteps (car tracks!) several times and enjoyed it immensely. I think it's out of print but I'm sure a good library would have it.
Normandy is wonderful. One day we followed little handpainted signs to a farm that sold cider. We ended up way way out in the boonies but we found the place and the cider was not only excellent, the farmer's wife was selling little grape cakes so be got one for dinner. In the area you might try St. Felician cheese. It's not quite as good as The Temptation of St. Felician cheese, but it's a close second. We did enjoy it and it's not one you seem mentioned often.